In This Article
30-Second Summary
Headline Links: French fashion leaders take measures against ultrathin models
Video & Audio: Paris collections
Background: Spanish and Italian fashion industries forbid stick-thin models
Reactions: Fashion leaders debate banning ‘waiflike’ models
Opinion & Analysis: Are bans ‘responsibility’ or ‘discrimination?’
Reference: Body Mass Index and health
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French Fashion Industry Joins Move to Ban Extremely Thin Models
April 16, 2008 11:56 AM
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by
findingDulcinea Staff
Following an agreement by fashion houses and media to stop promoting waiflike models, France’s parliament is considering tough enforcement measures. But some call such bans discriminatory.
30-Second Summary
In early April, French Health Minister Roselyne Bachelot signed a voluntary charter with fashion houses, advertising agencies and the media to ban “images of people, in particular youth, that could contribute to promoting a model of extreme thinness.”
But French legislator Valérie Boyer wants to go farther, and is pushing a bill that would punish anyone “inciting others to deprive themselves of food” with a fine of $47,000. If passed, the law will be the world’s toughest regulation of models’ body weight, adding momentum to voluntary skinny-model bans recently adopted in Milan and Madrid.
Such steps are seen by supporters as a way to combat fashion’s promotion of anorexia, an eating disorder that has claimed the lives of several celebrated models.
Madrid set the precedent in September 2006, forbidding models with a body-mass index below 18.5, medically considered underweight, from the catwalk at its fashion week, the Pasarele Cibeles.
Three of Milan’s most celebrated fashion houses, Armani, Prada and Versace, banned ultraskinny models in February 2007.
But New York and London say they will leave the use of “size 0” models up to designers, and the British Fashion Council says it “does not comment or interfere in the aesthetic of any designer’s show.”
Cathy Gould of New York’s Elite modeling agency argues that bans are “discriminatory” against naturally thin women, and British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman protests, “It would be like saying you can't have black or white models.”
But French legislator Valérie Boyer wants to go farther, and is pushing a bill that would punish anyone “inciting others to deprive themselves of food” with a fine of $47,000. If passed, the law will be the world’s toughest regulation of models’ body weight, adding momentum to voluntary skinny-model bans recently adopted in Milan and Madrid.
Such steps are seen by supporters as a way to combat fashion’s promotion of anorexia, an eating disorder that has claimed the lives of several celebrated models.
Madrid set the precedent in September 2006, forbidding models with a body-mass index below 18.5, medically considered underweight, from the catwalk at its fashion week, the Pasarele Cibeles.
Three of Milan’s most celebrated fashion houses, Armani, Prada and Versace, banned ultraskinny models in February 2007.
But New York and London say they will leave the use of “size 0” models up to designers, and the British Fashion Council says it “does not comment or interfere in the aesthetic of any designer’s show.”
Cathy Gould of New York’s Elite modeling agency argues that bans are “discriminatory” against naturally thin women, and British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman protests, “It would be like saying you can't have black or white models.”
Headline Links: French fashion leaders take measures against ultrathin models
Work on the charter began in January 2007. Members of the drafting group included fashion representatives, scientists, members of the press and consumers, and were advised by sociologist Jean-Pierre Poulain and child psychiatrist Marcel Rufo.
Source: Sydney Morning Herald (Agence France-Presse)
Video & Audio: Paris collections
Background: Spanish and Italian fashion industries forbid stick-thin models
Madrid
The Spanish Association of Fashion Designers in September 2006 banned models from the Pasarele Cibeles, Madrid’s fashion week, who have a body-mass index of less than 18.5. Some 30 percent of models lined up were thought not to meet that standard and would be sent for medical treatment. "The restrictions could be quite a shock to the fashion world at the beginning but I’m sure it’s important as far as health is concerned," said Madrid fashion show director Leonor Perez Pita.
Source: The BBC
Milan
Italian fashion houses Prada, Armani and Versace agreed to ban super-skinny models from the catwalk, effective during Milan’s Fall Fashion Week in February 2007. The Camera Nazionelle della Moda, Italy’s governing body on fashion, originally resisted making a step similar to that of Madrid Fashion Week.
Source: France Fashion blog
Reactions: Fashion leaders debate banning ‘waiflike’ models
London
Organizers of London’s spring 2007 Fashion Week said they would not follow Madrid and Milan in enforcing a strict ban on waiflike models. The British Fashion Council issued a statement in January that year, saying, “We believe that regulation is neither desirable nor enforceable. What will make a difference is the commitment of the fashion industry to change attitudes through behavior and education.”
Source: MSNBC (Associated Press)
Hilary Riva of the British Fashion Council said during spring 2007 Fashion Week, “There is no model on the London catwalk who is a size zero. Our models are typically size eight at the top and 10 at the bottom.” Sir Philip Green, U.K. apparel chain Topshop’s owner, vowed to forbid “waif models” from his company’s show. But Alexandra Shulman, the editor in chief of British Vogue, says the bans are discriminatory: “It would be like saying you can't have black or white models. By imposing new rules on size, you would be trying to prove whether someone was ill or well.”
Source: Thisislondon.co.uk
Tessa Jowell, the British minister of culture, said in September 2006, “I applaud the decision taken by Madrid to ban super-thin models, and urge the organizers of London Fashion Week to do the same.” But the British Fashion Council said, “it does not comment or interfere in the aesthetic of any designer’s show.”
Source: The BBC
New York
The Council of Fashion Designers of America said that it would not set a minimum body-mass index, or BMI, for models walking in New York’s February 2007 Fashion Week but would focus on developing awareness of eating disorders in the industry. The World Health Organization defines a BMI of below 18.5 as being underweight. Blog Monsters and Critics cites a study that estimates the average BMI of American models to be 16.3. Cathy Gould, speaking on behalf of the Elite modeling agency, says that a ban would be “discriminatory” against naturally skinny models.
Source: Monsters and Critics
The controversy over ultra-thin models intensified with the deaths in 2006 of two young models suffering from anorexia—Luisel Ramos, of Uruguay, and Ana Carolina Reston, of Brazil. Reston, who reportedly lived on a diet of apples and tomatoes, was 5 feet 8 inches tall and weighed 88 pounds when she died. Too often, voluntary "guidelines are things that people just hang on a wall," argues Lynn Grefe, CEO of the National Eating Disorders Association.
Source: Forbes
Opinion & Analysis: Are bans ‘responsibility’ or ‘discrimination?’
U.K.-based fashion blog takes a shot at British Culture Minister Tessa Jowell’s suggestion that London Fashion Week institute a minimum BMI. “Of course the models diet to stay slim, but many are naturally slim and were chosen by scouts for that reason. Don't worry Tessa, you'll still get your c£60k salary (about $120,000) and six-figure expenses budget. Why not let some naturally slim girl make a career in fashion and join you in your salary bracket?”
Source: Fashion, Style and Clothes
French Federation of Couture head Didier Grumbach wasted no time in expressing disapproval of Boyer’s bill: “Never will we accept in our profession that a judge decides if a young girl is skinny or not skinny. That doesn't exist in the world, and it will certainly not exist in France.”
Source: The Seattle Times (Associated Press)
Diane von Furstenberg wrote an open letter to the New York fashion industry about using healthy models: "As designers, we cannot ignore the impact fashion has on body image … The entire industry has to remain sensitive and aware of this issue, but should not discriminate." Freelance fashion writer Audrey Brashich applauds the creator of the wrap dress in her blog, writing, “I'm pleased to see someone on the inside issue such a direct, firm statement.”
Source: Audrey Brashich’s blog
Reference: Body Mass Index and health
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has a BMI calculator and a guide to interpreting size percentiles for children, teens and adults. The World Health Organization considers a BMI of 18.5 to be underweight.
Source: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
FindingDulcinea’s Guide to Fashion Online has links to magazines, how to break into fashion careers and shopping Web sites.
Source: findingDulcinea
FindingDulcinea featured a roundup of the Fall 2008 Paris Fashion Week, held February 28 through March 4 of this year.
Source: findingDulcinea
© 2010 Dulcinea Media, Inc.
