Remy de la Mauviniere/AP
Model Naomi Campbell
Model Naomi Campbell
‘Italian Vogue’ Seeks to Outmode Racism
June 30, 2008 09:01 AM
by
Anne Szustek
In protest of an attitude within the fashion industry that “black models don’t sell,” the July issue of the magazine seeks to make models of color a long-lasting trend.
30-Second Summary
The issue, which hit European newsstands on Thursday and is due stateside the first week of July, features more than 100 pages of spreads celebrating pioneers among models of color, such as Iman, as well as newcomers including America’s Next Top Model contestant Toccara Jones.
Italian Vogue editor-in-chief Franca Sozza told Britain’s The Daily Telegraph that she was inspired by Ill. Sen. Barack Obama’s presidential bid. “In the spirit of ‘change’ I’m guessing editor Franca Sozzani and photographer Steven Meisel, were ready to go out on a limb,” wrote the I Love Style blog.
Meisel, who did the shoots for the issue, was quoted as saying, “It’s ridiculous, this discrimination…Age, weight, sexuality, race—every kind of prejudice.”
The issue has already made some inroads on the catwalks—or so says blog Fashionista. Milan’s Dsquared² used mostly black men for its show earlier this week. Rumor has it that Lanvin will follow suit.
But some are unconvinced as to whether Vogue makes a clear statement against racism—or if it is just window dressing.
New York Magazine’s The Cut blog points out that the while newly minted Dominican model Arlenis Sosa “rocks the hell out of a floor-length Donna Karan,” unlike her statuesque frame, her English falls short. “If the piece is really supposed to make a case for the great black girls the public is missing out on, at least let us hear what she has to say.”
Jezebel questions American Vogue’s commitment to diversity: “The May 2007 issue had Chanel Iman on the cover … but far to the right and therefore under the fold, where Condé Nast—or is it Annie Leibovitz? —seems to think black people belong.”
Italian Vogue editor-in-chief Franca Sozza told Britain’s The Daily Telegraph that she was inspired by Ill. Sen. Barack Obama’s presidential bid. “In the spirit of ‘change’ I’m guessing editor Franca Sozzani and photographer Steven Meisel, were ready to go out on a limb,” wrote the I Love Style blog.
Meisel, who did the shoots for the issue, was quoted as saying, “It’s ridiculous, this discrimination…Age, weight, sexuality, race—every kind of prejudice.”
The issue has already made some inroads on the catwalks—or so says blog Fashionista. Milan’s Dsquared² used mostly black men for its show earlier this week. Rumor has it that Lanvin will follow suit.
But some are unconvinced as to whether Vogue makes a clear statement against racism—or if it is just window dressing.
New York Magazine’s The Cut blog points out that the while newly minted Dominican model Arlenis Sosa “rocks the hell out of a floor-length Donna Karan,” unlike her statuesque frame, her English falls short. “If the piece is really supposed to make a case for the great black girls the public is missing out on, at least let us hear what she has to say.”
Jezebel questions American Vogue’s commitment to diversity: “The May 2007 issue had Chanel Iman on the cover … but far to the right and therefore under the fold, where Condé Nast—or is it Annie Leibovitz? —seems to think black people belong.”
Headline Link: ‘Italian Vogue Shows Black Models Only’
The Daily Telegraph reports, “Italian Vogue’s all-black issue is unlikely to be emulated by its US sister magazine, but American Vogue is planning to run an article about the lack of black models.”
Source: The Daily Telegraph
Opinion & Analysis: A change in runway trends
The I Love Style blog writes that Italian Vogue’s editorial staff gained some inspiration from Ill. Sen. Barack Obama’s presidential campaign. “In the spirit of ‘change’ I’m guessing editor Franca Sozzani and photographer Steven Meisel, were ready to go out on a limb.”
Source: I Love Style
The fashion show this week of Milan-based label Dsquared2 featured primarily black models—a move that caused the blogger on Fashionista to wonder if the July Italian Vogue is spurring a trend in the industry. “Would designers have made an effort to cast entirely non-white model line ups in their shows without” Vogue’s fashion spreads?
Source: Fashionista
Newly discovered Dominican model Arlenis Sosa is one of the many black women to grace the pages of the upcoming issue of Italian Vogue. The Cut suggests that the magazine could have sprung for a translator for the non-English speaking fashion plate: “if the piece is really supposed to make a case for the great black girls the public is missing out on, at least let us hear what she has to say.”
Source: New York Magazine’s “The Cut Blog”
American Vogue’s April 2008 cover featured basketball player LeBron James and supermodel Gisele Bundchen in a pose that some thought perpetuated racist stereotypes. The same issue featured an article entitled, “Is Vogue Racist?” Blog Jezebel points out that the first time a black model appeared on the cover of the US edition of the magazine was in 1974 when Beverly Johnson was featured. Vogue was first published in September 1916. “The May 2007 issue had Chanel Iman on the cover… but far to the right and therefore under the fold, where Condé Nast—or is it Annie Leibovitz?—seems to think black people belong.”
Source: Jezebel
Reference: FindingDulcinea’s Web Guide to Fashion, Milan Fashion Week
FindingDulcinea’s Web Guide to Fashion makes the Web your personal runway. Learn the best sites for checking out the latest collections, getting designer house news and keeping on top of trends.
Source: findingDulcinea
According to Travel + Leisure magazine, “fashion is to Milan what religion is to Rome.” That makes Fashion Week something akin to Christmas, Easter and Sunday morning all rolled into one. Celebrate by reviewing the trends and collections that debuted in Milan this winter with findingDulcinea’s feature, “Cities of Milan.”
Source: findingDulcinea
Related Topics: The fight against super-skinny models
Following an agreement by fashion houses and media to stop promoting waiflike models, France’s parliament is considering tough enforcement measures. But some call such bans discriminatory against “naturally gazelle-like” women. Alexandra Shulman, the editor-in-chief of British Vogue, said that such a interdiction would be tantamount to “saying you can’t have black or white models.”
Source: findingDulcinea
The fashion industry, which has long favored emaciated women, is now developing a preference for skinny, pale and feminine men.



