Travel Tales: Havana

The 40-year-old trade embargo between the United States and Cuba presents some challenges for the American traveling to Cuba. You’ll have to book a flight from another country; I had no problems booking the 1.5 hour flight from Cancun to Havana on Cubana Airlines. And Cubans are happy to accommodate you (and take your tourist pesos): they don’t stamp your passport, so there’s no paper trail when you return through U.S. Customs. You also have to operate “off the grid”—on a cash-only basis—as credit cards issued by American banks cannot be used. Moon Handbooks has more information for the American traveling to Cuba.

When it comes to accommodations for the budget traveler, Cuba has a wide variety of options. A casa particular is a private home licensed by the government that rents to foreigners at a very reasonable price. In 2004, I rented a room with private bath in Habana Vieja (Old Havana) for about $25 a night. Sara, a single woman in her late 40s, was my friendly hostess. For an extra $3, she made breakfast every morning and let me practice my terrible Spanish with her. The Travel Channel’s Havana Destination Guide has some good recommendations on accommodations, restaurants, attractions and more.

There’s no better way to get acquainted with a city than to walk its streets, and the Malecón, Havana’s famous seaside drive, has to be one of the most beautiful streets in the world. Hugging the ocean on one side and flanked by formidable old buildings on the other, this iconic avenue seems frozen in time—a picture postcard of a bygone era. If you visit in the winter, though, be prepared to dodge the waves. Strolling there in December, I was soaked by powerful waves that crashed over the seawall and spilled into the street, but a Chevy Bel Air, circa 1955, managed to plow on through.

After a long, rambling walk, I stumbled on one of the more curious sights in Havana: a bronze statue of John Lennon sitting on a park bench. According to John-Lennon.com, a Lennon fan site, “the Beatles’ songs were considered ‘ideological diversionism’ by the Cuban authorities” in the 1960s and 1970s, and most Cubans were denied the opportunity to listen to the band’s music. The statue, created by Cuban artist Jose Villa, was unveiled on the 20th anniversary of Lennon’s death. Fidel Castro attended the unveiling, recasting Lennon as a victim of U.S. harassment and a revolutionary hero. Marvel at the ideological about-face, or just enjoy the photo op with Lennon.

You know the old saying, When in Rome … ? Well, when in Cuba, drink mojitos and smoke a cigar. I did both, to great excess, and wrote about it. Read all about “The Great Mojito Crawl” to discover where to find the best mojito in Havana.

After a night of too many mojitos, I was happy to spend the day lollygagging on a park bench in Plaza de las Armas, the oldest of Havana’s city parks. Enjoy the shade of the lush trees and the friendly vendors selling books and art. You’re sure to experience some memorable people-watching, too: I saw a man on a motorcycle with a sidecar. And riding proudly in the sidecar? A fat, smug-looking pig. You might even see someone famous. John Norris reported on the band Audioslave’s visit to Havana in 2005; each of the band members had their caricatures drawn by an artist in Plaza de las Armas.

When I wasn’t strolling the gorgeous streets, drinking mojitos or resting on park benches, I did take in some culture—of the revolutionary kind. Museo de la Revolucion (the Museum of the Revolution) is housed in what used to be the Presidential Palace. After Fidel Castro ousted President Batista, the building was transformed into a museum dedicated to the Cuban Revolution. My favorite exhibit? An enormous latch-hook wall-hanging of Che Guevara. As I was a devoted practitioner of latch hooking at age 11, I was thrilled to see the craft elevated to new artistic heights.

For a little bit of Cuban culture at home, get “Buena Vista Social Club.” The documentary tells the story of American guitarist Ry Cooder reuniting some of Cuba’s great forgotten musicians, culminating in the Grammy-winning album of the same name, and a performance at Carnegie Hall. View the trailer at the Internet Movie Database.