Travel Tales: New Orleans

For all the insider information I wish I’d had, have a taste of the Gumbo Pages. Written by New Orleans native Chuck Taggart, the site is a tangled labyrinth of unknowns: some links work, some don’t. Much like the city itself, the site isn’t polished but it’s the real deal. You’ll get a bit of history on the city, a lesson in how to talk like a local, and tons of insight into the food, music and culture that makes New Orleans so distinctive.

“A Confederacy of Dunces” provides a hysterical (and sometimes heartbreaking) introduction to New Orleans, through the eyes of main character Ignatius J. Reilly. You don’t have to be slumming it in New Orleans as I was to appreciate the raucous adventures of Ignatius. Read the book, then take a virtual tour  created by a “Confederacy” aficionado and glimpse the various New Orleans locales mentioned throughout.

One of the most strange and memorable sights I had in New Orleans was seeing dedicated fans of Anne Rice, author of the “Vampire Chronicles.”  Decked out in elaborate gothic costumes (think heavy wool and lots of black) and white pancake makeup, they went about their day-to-day business in the blazing heat and humidity—while I dripped with sweat in my little sundress. Anne Rice’s Vampire Lestat Fan Club has information on membership and upcoming events.

My very first weekend in New Orleans was the start of Jazz Fest. Who needs Mardi Gras when there’s the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival? The festival is so much more than jazz music: the Fais Do-Do Stage overflows with Cajun and zydeco, Congo Square brims with funk and soul, and the Gospel Tent brings you a little closer to something ethereal (and provides a much-need break from the sun). Nourish yourself with the music and with the food—catfish po-boy and sweet potato pone never tasted so good.

If you can’t make it to Jazz Fest, the next best thing is WWOZ 90.7 FM, “New Orleans’ Jazz and Heritage Station.” Stream the station online using the “Tune In” link at the top right of the homepage, or browse the “Playlists” page to see what the DJs are playing and discover some new favorites.

As you might imagine, there’s something going on in New Orleans every night of the week. One of my favorite spots to enjoy the nightlife was Vaughan’s, a dive in the Bywater district. On Sunday evenings, the Mardi Gras Indians would practice and on Thursdays, Kermit Ruffins would perform. As an added bonus, there always seemed to be free food available (red beans and rice for the Indians, and barbecue for Ruffins). Visit Offbeat.com, the city’s entertainment magazine, to find out what’s happening on any given night.

Like many people I met in New Orleans, I was poor and unemployed when I arrived, so my time was spent exploring the city’s free sites. St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 quickly became one of my favorite haunts (pardon the pun). The aboveground tombs are a city unto themselves, a great place for a peaceful stroll with camera in hand. Save Our Cemeteries, an organization dedicated to preserving the historic cemeteries of New Orleans, offers guided tours of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, two of New Orleans’ most historically important cemeteries.