Travel Tale: Morocco in Three Steps

Built into the steep foothills of the Rif Mountains and around the steady, crystal-clear flow of a spring, Chefchaouen, which means ‘look to the peaks,’ represents one of the quietest and quaintest cities in Morocco.

Founded by Jews fleeing Christian persecution in the late 15th century, Chefchaouen shares a number of similarities, architecturally, culturally and even linguistically, with its Andalusian neighbors. Beyond the village’s comparatively busy outer avenues is a maze of narrow streets lined with buildings, painted a light shade of white, or Mediterranean blue, by order of a town rule. A darker shade is reserved to alert wanderers of dead ends.

Arriving by train, one immediately realizes why Marrakech is called the Rose City. A light red clay is used for all buildings in Marrakech, giving the city a soft glow at sunrise and sunset. This is especially impressive when weather allows for a backdrop of the Atlas Mountains to the east, contrasting deep reds with the distant snow-capped peaks.  

Located about a half-hour walk from the train station, the Marrakech Old Town begins slowly with a series of open parks and gardens, some of which have recently been refurbished. In a modern twist, one has been renamed Cyber Park, thanks to the funding of several tech companies. Despite its name, the red dirt walkways lined with orange trees and small fountains, offer a decidedly old world feel. Further in, the spirit and traditional character of Marrakech progressively takes shape until the shadow of a towering minaret finally falls upon the entry to the Place Djemaa al-Fna—an immense, open square hosting every character imaginable, from snake charmers to herbalists with their wares sprawled across open blankets.

Escaping the crowds can be difficult especially if one moves further into the old town, as the square acts not only as an open marketplace but also the entrance into the densely packed, dangerously narrow streets of the “souk.”. Taking pains to fill every bit of available space with folk art and other assorted merchandise, these streets boast arts, crafts and food from street to ceiling, as well as some of the most assertive salesmen one might ever encounter.  

Essaouira is a one-time Portuguese port town along the Atlantic coast whose long stretches of beach host waves of wind surfers, drawn by fierce northeastern trade winds, as well as those in search of relaxed ocean living. Small enough to navigate without the need of a guide, or really even a map, Essaouira is the ideal tail end to any hectic trip—serene from start to finish.

Located three hours from Marrakech by bus, Essaouira is surrounded by thick, fortress-like walls that have guarded it for centuries. Both an artist sanctuary and burgeoning beach-side resort, Essaouira exudes a quiet calm that stretches from the wind-blown, coastal plaza through to the city’s rear walls, protecting it from blasts of sand blown in from the eastern desert.

It’s this tranquil vibe that attracted crowds of western travelers like guitarist Jimi Hendrix here during the 1960s.