Travel Tales: Cold Spring

En route, with Janelle’s right foot dangling out the window and mine barely touching the brakes, the sparkling Hudson River sprawled beside Route 9D. We passed beneath a tunnel that cuts through Breakneck Ridge, a mountain stretching to the riverbank and offering hikers striking panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Flip-flops certainly wouldn’t suffice on the rugged bluffs, portions of which had been blasted away and used to build the Brooklyn Bridge.

The Hudson River is visible from Main Street in Cold Spring and on the Metro North train ride from Manhattan. The Cold Spring waterfront area hosts musical performances and has comfortable seating for sightseeing day-trippers.

Just five minutes farther south, we arrived at Main Street, sloping lazily down toward the river. Busy with cyclists and hikers dressed in hip athletic gear, stylish shoppers milling in and out of antique shops, and stroller-wielding couples licking ice cream cones, the scene is a comfortable mix of ages and persuasions. We parked and hit the sidewalk, browsing the menus of several eateries and pubs around the midday lunch rush. At Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill, we fell for the outdoor flower garden, winding rock path, and enticing Mediterranean menu.

Others flocked down the hill to the Cold Spring Depot, housed in a fetching old train station built by Cornelius Vanderbilt in 1893. The restaurant is as close as you can get to the river, perched just across the street from the tunnel leading to Cold Spring’s waterfront area, which hosts evening concerts for families in the summer, and is lit up with white lights for the holidays.

As you stroll back up the hill, look for Women’s Work at 65 Main Street, a small shop full of crafts, clothing and jewelry. Nearly all of the items are made by women from Botswana and Zimbabwe as part of a program set up by Cecilia Dinio-Durkin, a former writer and magazine editor.

It may be tempting to stay and unwind in the village for a few days, basking in the river, the food, and the easy pace. The Pig Hill Inn is housed in a historic brick building on Main Street, and each room is decorated in a different style, including Victorian, and one is dubbed “Tranquility.” The décor is a bit formal and cluttered in some rooms, but ultimately the inn captures Cold Spring’s cozy vibe.

The coziness is perhaps best experienced during autumn, when the river is flanked by trees covered in blazing gold and red leaves and the air is crisp enough but not too chilly. Cold Spring is an easy train trip from New York City, drawing weekenders and second homeowners seeking nature, open space, and great views. The ride is about an hour and 10 minutes, and is most soothing in the early morning, as the river winds its way north. After lunch, we noticed day-trippers disembarking from northbound Metro North trains, toting backpacks and wearing smiles—it’s tough not to here.